One Year On

Well old blogging buddies its very hard to believe but I have now been in Cambodia for a year and it seems like only yesterday that I said my tearful goodbyes to David and Sally at the airport and so much has happened to me since.
I have managed to negotiate a short extension to my placement although VSO Cambodia thought I was there for two years any way so that was not difficult the Council wants me to stay another year and in many ways I would love to as they do need help to really develop into a more confident and fully functioning organisation but sadly I must return home by Christmas but VSO has agreed to consider another volunteer for them next year which may actually work by then as I hope by that time they will have got the ministerial approval for the standards that have been developed by the Council for essential competencies and a code of ethics for midwives without these its hard to see how the Council will be able to move forward in the future.
A donor proposal is now ready to be presented to some major international donors by the President on the 14th October my colleague Pros and I are helping her and the other midwives on the exec committee to build their confidence so that they can put their case with conviction and passion.
securing resources to accelerate their progress is vital
In addition I am helping them to write some basic policies and guidelines for dealing with complaints and disciplinary issues

Our new hemacue HB analyser in use at clinic

We had a Council meeting last week and someone always brings lovely food the time before we had banana fritters this time we had 'cadow K'ti' which are sweet rice dumplings and coconut milk wonderful! how I have lost 15 kilo's I do not know by the way did I say I have lost 15 kilo's and am now a size 12!.......................
On the clinic front all the new equipment donated and or purchased is now being put to good use last week the staff were very distressed as one of our women sold her baby for $50 to a complete stranger in another part of Cambodia fortunately the woman returned the baby as she found it to be sick so the NGO has placed the baby in a place of  safety with Cambodian foster parents whilst they support the mother in making a decision about the baby's future. Child and baby trafficking is rife here and who knows what could have happened to that baby had it not been returned it makes me shudder to think but these are the realities and the outcomes of severe poverty. Baby Jinnie is doing as well as she can she has quite severe problems including blindness probably although her mum thinks that she can see a little and my money is on her as she is devoted to that baby.
Lea Howie
Next time what makes me smile and cry in Cambodia...............................

This is my most loved photograph taken in Mondulkiri Cambodia I was sitting on a log not 10 feet away from this beautiful creature

Cambodia the Country of Wonders

The waterfall at Kbal Spean

Hello again dear blogging buddies " Cambodia the country of wonders" is a common slogan used here to promote the up and coming tourist industry it has come alive for me on many occasions over the past year as recorded in previous blogs but my latest travels to Cambodia's spiritual and cultural  heart really did reveal "wonders" on the grandest of scales
Siem Reap is described in the guide books as 'a charming town with its many colonial style buildings tree lined streets and winding river' it is now growing and thriving on the increasing numbers of tourists on their way to see the Temples of Angkor.
When the French explorers rediscovered Angkor Watt it was not much more than a village

The wonderful Banteay Srei temple

The main Temples of Angkor are about 6 kms from the town centre. Chris and I stayed at our favourite hotel Terrace Des Elephants the friendliest and quirkiest hotel I have ever stayed in it was my third stay there and now I would not consider staying any where else including the legendary Raffles and many other 5* hotels springing up in Siem Reap
On our first day we got up at 4 am (yes I know I am mad) for a 5 am departure by tuck tuck to see the sun rise over Angkor Wat this was an act of faith in itself as its the rainy season so no guarantees that we would see the sun at all and it was looking doubtful as we passed through the dark tree lined streets through a light drizzle. We were joined by several other hundreds of mad people but the complex is so vast that we felt as if we were there alone and dame fortune did smile upon us as day break approached the clouds cleared and we did indeed see the sun rise over Angkor Wat .
The history of Angkor Wat starts around the 9th century Khmer religious beliefs, art and architecture all stemmed from India who introduced both Hinduism and Buddhism to the country which had a profound effect on the culture.The indigenous Khmer's though did not entirely abandon their beliefs in their heroes/guardian spirits good spirits and evil spirits who roam the land bringing sickness and death.
'Spirit houses' are in evidence outside most homes and buildings to this day complete with offerings.
We had a great guide who took us all over the temple complex including Angkor Thom entering along the impressive causeway through the south gate -Bayon where I saw the carving of a woman giving birth which is the emblem of CMC -then on to the Terrace of the Leper King  -Elephant Terrace - Bayon - Ta Prohm where the trees and temple ruins have become as one then back to Angkor Wat
The following day was even better we travelled about 30kms in our tuck tuck through small villages past vivid green paddy fields and other crops its so interesting traveling in Cambodia especially by tuck tuck as you get the chance to see how people live their homes how they cook and spend their time as just every thing goes on outside.
As we neared the Kulen mountains the heavens opened up and the rain just poured but undeterred we donned our rain capes and set off on a 1050 m climb/walk over rocks and tree roots crossing precarious bridges and other obstacles to reach our destination of Kbal Spean.
Our goal being the 9 th century river bed carvings along a tributary of the Stung Kbal Spean which eventually finds its way into the Tonle sap river. These ancient carvings are just above a very attractive waterfall which for those brave enough to try it was accessible me and my pal took the view that we were wet enough as it was so declined the offer of our guide to sample the healing waters
We were however bowled over by the sight of these ancient stone carvings which included many lingus arranged in rows images of gods and animals as clear as the day they were carved.
The most impressive for me though was the 4 faced god of Brahma on a lotus North of the natural bridge.
A stunning place well worth the climb.

After a very good lunch our guide took us to my all time favourite temple Banteay Srei ( means woman's fortress ) It was so intricate made from sandstone and being beautifully restored I just loved this place it had much more of a spiritual feel to it than some of the larger temples 

Two young monks entering Angkor Wat temple

 

Angkor Wat one of the 4 basins of the cruciform cloister

Almost at the top of Kbal spean

Not the sun rise and a pity about the scaffolding but this is me in front of Angkor Wat temple

Reclining Vishnu in the stream just N of natural bridge ( note sun just come out )

 

Making History and other tales from Cambodia

Some of the Phnom Penh Provincial Council midwives being sworn in at the Council's official opening of its 22nd provincial office

Well dear blogger there is much to do here in Cambodia and not enough time to do it as reported in my last missive  my work at the Council is going well I have just completed an outline proposal for them in order to secure more resources to accelerate their progress towards achieving the regulation of Midwives in Cambodia. This is hugely important as the evidence shows that in countries where there are robust systems in place for regulating the profession then maternal and newborn mortality and morbidity rates improve.
There is not a week goes by now that there is not a horror story in the newspapers here of women dyeing for the want of skilled/ birth attendance and increasingly the public are going to the press with their concerns (note not the authorities!) about the behaviour or competence of midwives which on the one hand is terrible but on the other it is good  for pushing forward the case for registration and regulation.
Last week I had the pleasure of attending the launch of the Provincial Council for Phnom Penh so far the Council has opened 22 offices one in every province where all midwives will be expected to register it was held in PP's Municipal referral hospital I was told about it 10 minutes before it was due to start but as it was only around the corner from the office I got there on time.
Cambodians certainly know how to put on an occasion the hospital director was there ( a very stylish lady) and her deputy plus 45 invited guests from the district ie hospitals and health centres.
The event kicked off with the national anthem and then introductions I was asked to stand and got a round of applause!! my only regret was that as I didn't know in advance I didn't look particularly smart and would have liked to have taken the opportunity to wear my new sampot ( Cambodian Skirt) after introductions Ing Rada read out the Royal Decree which set up the Council and outlined its role and function after which the nominated midwives for the provincial Council were sworn in. Below are pictures of the event.

In the centre is Ms Ing Rada President of CMC on her right the hospital Director a Dr and on her left the deputy Director also a Dr.

  The Council has two further provincial offices to open and one regional office but has not the budget in this financial year so further delays CMC's progress in achieving full registration of all midwives even further so it seems more important than ever that our proposal to international donors is successful we are planning to meet with them in the near future.
These fantastic midwives had no idea that they were making history by pioneering regulation of midwives for Cambodia it was great to be a part of it
All efforts now are going into preparing the Councils executive team in presenting their case at the donor meeting  I want the international donors to see how committed these midwives are and that given more resources they will make a big difference although this will not be easy as money is tight.
Wish us luck!!!!
I have been busy on other work fronts too the informal health and related professionals network meetings are going well and gaining new members all the time we are now at 31 and I can see people making connections and we friendships are blossoming which is so important here we have had some very interesting  presentations and discussions so I hope that it will continue when I leave.
Also just written an article for Health Messenger which is a health magazine aimed at nurses and midwives at health centre level so a wide readership. It is unique in Cambodia and is produced in English and Khmer.
My article was about the attributes of a good midwife which of course included the clinical skills and competencies required but  also I tried to emphasise the personal/behavioural qualities including care, compassion and advocacy vital  components in my view and much in need of here.
I used as a case study one of the student midwives I have met at the valuing life clinic here in PP Theary is a second year student at University and is just the sort of role model for the future midwife Cambodia needs she is kind listens to the women understands their problems and talks to them as equals she gives me hope in the future
Talking of the clinic there was great excitement last Saturday as I took more of the equipment sent over from my old pals at the SHA and clinical skills network and pride of place was the haemacue (haemoglobin measurement machine) purchased using donations raised by my wonderful Vocal Expressions Ladies Choir of Holmfirth it was fantastic we tested every woman attending the ANC as it is so long since we have been able to rest their Hb every one had some degree of anaemia which is endemic in poor communities but can be a killer for pregnant women after delivery as even moderate bleeding with a depleted Hb can be disastrous.
One young woman had an Hb of 8.7g (normal 12-14g ) at 32 weeks she really needs urgent treatment so as you can see already the haemacue has been worth its weight in gold

Testing for anaemia

The wonderful haemacue

Lea Howie!!!
PS ALL photographs published by kind permission of the subjects

How time flies........

How time flies dear blogger and indeed how does a body keep up?
I am now way behind on my blog and my personal e mails (so sorry to all my chums) so this entry is going to be succinct and will try to get you all caught up with my exploits here in Cambodia since my visit to Stung Treng
Work well work has gone from bad to so much better some of my more astute bloggers will have gleaned that I have had a bit of a struggle with CMA since last October may be all down to me of course but capacity building when no one comes to have their capacity built was challenging even for the most able and experienced OD expert (which I am not) and it was very frustrating and demoralising hence my defaulting to other activities like the clinic and setting up the Health/Related professional network so after several meetings with VSO and thanks to our new VSO health programme manager Clare my placement was switched to work with the Cambodian Midwives Council. As we share the same office there was no big upheaval but I do feel a sense of failure in that I could not persuade and inspire the CMA executive to develop and strengthen what they do but I guess you cannot "win em all" We have though parted friends which is good
Onwards and upwards since 1st July my working life has been so much better the Council want me and have already responded to some ideas and suggestions they are  a very committed group of women trying to get to grips with putting in a regulation system to make midwifery safer in Cambodia is a tall order especially with so few resources  its a pleasure to help them.
The network is also going well attendance has been excellent at some meetings with some interesting presentations we were a bit thin on the ground last Friday because its holiday time and I have been asked to be an external assessor on an interview panel so am very busy at the moment.
Last week too I spent most of it in a village called Thmar Puok in the far NW of the country only 15kms from the Thai border I was invited by Olly another VSO volunteer there working as hospital management advisor.
I went to take up some learning resources for their midwives and to do a bit of teaching. Thmar Puok  is 60kms from the town of Sisophon along a dirt road the only major dirt main road left in Cambodia and it makes for very hard traveling especially in the rainy season with pot holes the size of craters imagine what it must be like if you are in labour and need transferring to better facilities the rains often wash away the bridges and the mud acts just  like black ice.
The hospital has had a lot of international investment it has a new children's which Olly and Alison (a VSO child health advisor)and some other education volunteers have decorated and made more child friendly and they have raised funds to buy toys below I am outside the new ward with some of the children

Me outside the new children's ward Thmar Puok

I stayed with Olly and his partner Katja in their house in the heart village with a small market just around the corner where we wandered after work to buy fresh provisions they are both great cooks and I ate really well if I can find it I will post Olly's pumpkin curry on my next blog
Their house was a typical Cambodian one and I have to say the only place I have stayed in Cambodia not surrounded by a high metal fence barbed wire and locked gates just a little wooden fence marking out the boundary.
They had a fab balcony with a hammock which I took advantage of as you can see below

Visiting the maternity unit on the first day was interesting and eventful it was extremely busy and chaotic but the head midwife was not there in the labour ward a women recently delivered was attempting to get off the labour ward bed and promptly fainted in front of Katja and I so we went into nurse mode laid her back down quickly she was bleeding although not too badly but no midwife in sight mind you neither was her baby so in my faltering K'mai and with the help of Sophal Olly's translator I suggested that the midwife should bring back the baby and help mum to breast feed which amazingly she did not bad I thought for a very rusty old midwife when we went back later in the day mum and baby were both doing well
The next day I went onto the ward the head midwife was there and it was in pristine condition by Cambodian standards any way I presented the books and learning .materials and Lineka the HM could not have been more pleased as you can see below

Lineka the Head Midwife at Thmar Puok a great role model

I just want to take this opportunity to thank once again the fantastic staff and students of the midwifery school at the University of Huddersfield who held a coffee and cake morning and raised over £400 to buy the books which are now in 4 different locations in Cambodia and being used by many midwives and students across the country 

Some participants in the training session

On the social front I cannot let this post get published without mentioning the great reunion I had with my family David and Sally arrived in Cambodia on July 27th we had not seen each other for 10 months open displays of affection/ emotion are rare but we did not care all the Cambodians waiting at the airport must have thought we were mad.
During their stay in PP we visited a lot of my favourite haunts and where I live VSO office work and some of the sights of PP they loved it especially riding around in the tuk/tuk's.On one of the evenings some of my VSO and work colleagues and their partners joined us at the Khmer Surin Restaurant where we sat on the floor in the traditional Khmer manner it was a very memorable evening pictures to follow.
From there David had arranged to fly to a wonderful island off Malaysia called Pangkor Laut what a paradise 5 days doing nothing except be pampered it was a location in a James Bond film not sure which but I can certainly see why.
We completed our trip with a couple of days in Kuala Lumpar not my favourite place I have to say but some good shopping and it rained all day every day too but we were upgraded to suites at the hotel and the food was fantastic so it didn't matter as we had so much to catch up on.
Saying goodbye at the airport was not as hard as I thought (not like last August ) as we all knew I would be back home in a few months and as I said at the start how time is flying by!!!!........
Next episode will include......................
An update on the clinic mums and babies and our trip to the Kirirom national park where Chris and I had a real adventure...........
Lee Howie   Kath

Stung Treng Episode 2

My two days spent with Angela a new volunteer midwifery advisor in ST were wonderful disturbing frustrating and enlightening in equal measure Angela is a midwife of great standing and has forgotten more about midwifery than I will ever know her role is to help the referral hospital in ST and about 8 health centres improve standards of midwifery practice my visit started in the hospital.
From the outside it looked quite impressive with a new emergency care and maternity unit however it belied what lay beyond.
The maternity unit was stark cheerless and somewhat dirty and depressing the toilets and sinks were not working were over flowing with dirty water soaking the floors Angela told me that only the operating theatre sinks were in good working order.
The labour ward bed was just a wooden frame no mattress and looked like something out of Dickens there was a more modern bed which had been donated by a well meaning NGO but it was not suitable for the purpose and the midwives did not like using it which I could understand the only position women could possibly give birth on it was flat on their backs there was absolutely no privacy which is common here.
The operating theatre was reasonably equipped but as with every thing else needed a good fettle there was still blood on the table from past incumbents and as I was to find out later in the afternoon when I observed a C. Section the same blood remained on the table.
The theatre lights and other equipment were really dusty and only one bulb was working but that said the Dr's technique including the epidural were I would say on the acceptable side but the nursing care was sadly lacking the lady giving birth was conscious throughout strapped to the table and no one spoke to her they took the baby away without even showing him to mum.
His first introduction to the world was of being plucked from his mothers womb by his feet held upside down and then unceremoniously hurled at a metal tray being held by the receiving midwife fortunately she caught him  OK I grant you it was covered in a green towel but it was a metal tray nevertheless.Wouldn't a pair of warm arms have been so much better and safer!!?
He was though a very healthy 4.6 Kg baby a rarity in Cambodia and despite everything he and his mum survived.
Angela was extremely worried about a lady with pre eclampsia but none of the other midwives seemed to be with her intervention she did manage to get the right treatment but the baby died however the mum lived which I am not sure she would have done so at least one family of 6 didn't loose their mum.
To counter balance the rigors of the day Thea invited Angela and her husband Chris for dinner and I have to say what a dinner fit for a queen and with the Beatles Cat Stevens and S& G to accompany us there was no better antidote to the rigours of the day.
The following day we visited Thala an island on the other side of the river to ST town to visit midwives in a health centre. We met 5/6 midwives and talked to them about their work and their training needs.
The difference between the midwives in the HC all primary midwives (1 year training ) and the ones in the hospital was quite startling as they were bright and interested although most were very inexperienced
We returned to ST by ferry accompanied by a great assortment of passengers and livestock including a couple of live pigs strapped to motorbikes imagine the din!!!
I left ST full of admiration for Angela Wendy and Ingran all health volunteers in ST they have their work cut out but were so inspirational optimistic and cheerful it was a joy to spend time with them.
It was also a wonderful to spend time with Jan and Thea who put me up in their house and Thea got up at 3 30 in the morning to see me off now that's friendship
Some pictures will follow

Stung Treng Where?..........

Stung Treng Province

Last week I took matters into my own hands in relation to finding out more about how maternal and newborn health care is delivered in the far reaches of Cambodia waiting to go out and about with CMA members was clearly not going to happen I have tried many times already and been thwarted every time.
The dedicated follower of these musings will recall that several of 'my group' are placed in Stung Treng which is in the North East of Cambodia on the border with Lao. Ingran a young ra......paediatrician and Jan and Thea from Holland working in education I had made a long standing promise when we parted in October to visit them in situ and there are a couple of new volunteers there now Wendy a hospital management advisor and Angela (and her husband Chris) have recently started a new placement there. Angela is a midwife of long standing and has forgotten more about midwifery than I will ever know she is there as midwifery advisor to the referral hospital and 7/8 surrounding health centres some of which are very remote indeed and can only be reached by boat.
As I had little to do at CMA I would kill two birds with one stone and go on a field visit as it is known in NGO land and see at first hand the challenges of delivering maternal and child health services in one of the remoter and poorer provinces
I travelled by minibus an experience in itself let me explain the procedure when you ring to book in English someone rings you back and tells you to be awake by 3am in my case I got another phone call at 4am to say they would pick me up in 10mins 40 Min's later they arrived I was bundled somewhat unceremoniously into a mini van occupying the middle seat which is very hard with no proper backrest or seat belt (don't tell my husband) and when you have lost as much padding as I have on the old derriere a 7 hour journey is a long time.However my fellow passengers were quite friendly and seemed to appreciate my faltering attempts at K'mai which caused great hilarity but looked after me throughout the journey.
I arrived at Jan and Thea's at about 11 as it was Sunday I spent a very enjoyable day with them in their home a little corner of Holland they have created. Thea is the most incredible cook and even made fried eggs and tomatoes taste amazing we caught up on all our news it was just such a relaxing time which was good as the next two days were to prove quite taxing in more ways than one............... 

Town of Stung Treng

A Glimpse of Paradise

Hello again dear blogging buddies
Just when you think that you have seen the best place in Cambodia along comes another one and  blasts you away such was my experience over the past few weekends but before I wax lyrical about my travels lets get you up to date with the business end first.

National Day of the MidwifeThe conference to celebrate National Midwives day went really well over 400 delegates attended mainly midwives from all Provinces in Cambodia we all wore CMA " T" shirts even the Prime Minister's wife Lok Chumteav Kittiprittbandit Buny Rany Hun Sen. She was the key note speaker and gave what I thought was a very hard hitting address calling for midwives and Dr's to show more kindness and compassion to women and the newborn she also called for the Ministry of Health to close down unlicensed pharmacies and clinics which was music to both mine and the Council's ears as they strive to introduce a regulation framework and system for Cambodia

 

Some of the midwives gathering to celebrate International Midwives Day

  Valuing Life Clinic
 I have missed a couple of Saturdays as I have been away but last Saturday I returned absolutely armed to the teeth with yet more baby clothes from my great pals at choir and the Nursery/Nursing students at Wakefield College thanks to you all once again.
Its great now as I am getting to know the women more and they always seem really pleased to see me.
The lady with malnutrition is doing really well her baby is continuing to grow and she looks so much better Baby Jinnie our 1.2 kg baby I did not recognise she is now 4kgs and looks as fit as a fiddle bright alert and feeding brilliantly. Her mum though is not doing so well she came to clinic full of bruises because the roof of her house (shack) caved in on her fortunately the baby was not with her at the time her blood pressure is still high and the clinic are going to refer and pay for her to have investigations she is the most fantastic mum and thanks to her little Jinnie is doing as well as she is so we must do all we can to get her well although her living conditions are awful.
The clinic is desperate for a permanent midwife to support Toinette the missionary midwife there they really need a Khmer midwife and I am going to try to help them find the right person but its a hard task so wish me luck.

One of the delightful students at the clinic doing ante natal checks

Health /related Professions Network  I have set up and chair an new informal health and related professions network for people either new to Cambodia or who work in isolated posts like me we have had two meetings so far and they have gone really well.
We have some really interesting people attending from all nations and its really good to see useful and productive connections being made
On my travels again
May dear blogger in Cambodia is just one long public holiday there is the Kings birthday for one which with the weekend gave us 5 days off. My pal Chris has had a friend Jenny staying with her and they very kindly agreed to let me tag along with them on their trip to Kep Province which is South West  of the country I have been before in November though but the weather was not brilliant this time it did not disappoint there was rain but not enough to put us off long country walks and dips in the the sea which was the most beautiful azure and as still as a mill pond.
The first day we went on a mountain (I use the term loosely) walk and Jenny a keen ornithologist was in raptures at the fauna with all kinds of birds and butterfly's the size of tea plates or so tiny they resembled flecks of brightly coloured confetti.
The following day we took a boat to Rabbit Island what a little haven the three of us found a quiet cove stripped off (not a pretty sight for the local fauna) and bathed in the cool calm sea Jenny did some snorpling (a Sally ism) and a great time was had by all only topped by a leisurely lunch eaten on the shoreline fresh grilled fish and salad there's no wonder I'm slim now!!! To be honest I did order chips but they were off that day.........

Rabbit Island

On my travels........As I mentioned in my introduction just when you think things can't get any better they jolly well do this time a trip to the opposite end of the country took Chris and I to Kratie Province staying in Kratie town which is situated on the Mekong river.
Gilly and Sam from my ICT group are both volunteers lucky enough to have a placement there they planned our trip with military precision and it did not disappoint after a long hot and noisy bus trip Chris and I were met by G&S and taken to their lovely Khmer home for afternoon tea and cakes plus fruit free jam!! then on a little tour of the town and drinks by the Mekong river to watch the sunset.
Kratie is reputed to have the best sunsets in Cambodia so who am I to argue they are stunning
The following day G&S had arranged for us to visit Koh Trong Island after a short boat trip and an exercise in walking the plank to get on to the boat which was scary! we disembarked into what I can only be describedSophal who took Chris and I on a tour of the island in his pony and cart sitting back to back we stared in wonder at the beauty and peace of this magical place.
The island is situated in the middle of the Mekong and visitors can travel the 9km loop road around the island through the peaceful Khmer villages fruit orchards rice fields whilst watching the daily routines of village life which has not changed for many years 
Sophal was brought up in an orphanage in PP he met his wife there although her parents were from the island he is a christian and they have 3 children Hannah (5) Martha (3) and Luke (1) they left PP to try to create a happier and healthier life for their children. Sophal has been asked by the commune chief to be in charge of tourism on the island he has set up a little information office and hires out bikes and takes folks around in his cart pulled by Mao his miniature pony.
After our tour he took us to meet his family who were a delight we were given refreshments including Pomello's for which the island is famous they are a type of huge grapefruit and also fresh mango's his wife showed us her small holding where they grow a range of fruit and vegetables the whole island acts as a cooperative and aims to be self sufficient in fresh produce.What they don't eat they can sell in Kratie
We visited the floating village where Vietnamese people live and the island's pagoda. The island has two schools two Watt's or Pagoda's and a police station with 7 policemen! unbelievable and says every thing about the police service in this country.
We bade Sophal and his wife a fond farewell wishing them luck for the future and their dream to open a small restaurant on the island
I cannot remember ever spending such a wonderful morning as I thought then life just does not get any better......
But in the afternoon G&S arranged for us to go to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins and it kept getting better we travelled by tuk tuk through villages full of  friendly happy children smiling waving and shouting their hello's at the landing point we hired a boat which took us out to where the Dolphins were basking and in the peaceful twilight we caught many sightings of these beautiful graceful creatures often hearing them blowing air before seeing them. I do not have the words to describe the beauty adequately enough I just know it will remain with me forever............
Lei Howie
Kath

An Irrawaddy Dolphin now a protected species only around 100 left in Cambodia. Many were killed by the Khmer Rouge and their oils sold to Viet Nam